Chateau Monty

I finally got around to reading Monty Waldin's book of the the tv series I watched earlier in the year charting his attempts to make his own wine. The programme was enjoyable but suffered from a touch of reality tv in the form of a whining inexperienced assistant, clearly chosen to frustrate rather than aid the winemaking pricess and thereby add some 'entertainment'. Lindsay the assistant is on the other hand entirely absent from the book which is all the better for it. You have to respect the authors assault on the world of wine production. Whilst the first years output of 545 cases is on a scale that cannot possibly repay the effort put in, the choice of an organic, vegan and biodynamic wine in an easy drinking style offers the opportunity to excel in a niche that to date has perhaps failed to set the world alight. The accompanying book and tv series no doubt helped fund the project and more importantly, promote the wine. This book then, is a light hearted and enjoyable read which clearly communicates this well respected wine authors enthusiasm both for making his own wine and for making it well. The final chapter at a launch party for his first vintage bought a lump to my throat as he describes the feeling of seeing his own wine drunk and counters the classic criticism of any wine writer. Here is someone who has achieved the dream of almost every wine enthusiast for he has grown and vinified grapes as well as offering an opinion as to the quality of their final form. Read, dream and enjoy.

The Square

For Christmas Lunch with friends we recently took the opportunity to dine at The Square, since let's be honest, over a certain price point one dines whereas at more economical restaurants one simply eats or lunches.

Two Michelin stars, a chef that actually cooks in his restaurants which include Kitchen W8 and The Ledbury, means that Philip Howard presents a classic approach to French Cuisine that excels technically. There is also a little humour however - a starter of Game Consommé with a Bacon Mousseline, Wild Duck Club Sandwich and a Grouse and Venison Scotch Egg bought a smile to our faces. The consomme was crystal clear, demonstrating a flavour intensity that comes of hard work and great skill. The sandwich was a richly textured miniature.

Dishes such as Venison Wellington and Turbot with Cauliflower, Parmesan and Almond Salad and Truffled Cauliflower Purée were entirely classic in their presentation though took the opportunity to embrace ingredients that are not part of the classic French reportoire. A seasonal finale of a simple but perfectly cooked Christmas Pudding provided a light but fruit packed finale to the meal.

Our sommelier was in order of novelty, enthusiastic rather than formal, gracious rather than condescending and even smiled which meant that selecting from the well rounded wine list was a harmonious process rather than a battle of wits.

This then is a restaurant to return to since The Square has achieved that epitome of fine dining, the knowledge that when you return you will not notice the light pleasant dining room, the efficient service or the technical excellence and quality of the cooking. You will just enjoy your meal immensely.

Nobu and Japanese dining

I finally had the chance to compare Nobu's whilst in Dubai recently, having only eaten at the Berkeley Square outpost in the past. Waves of bamboo style canes frame the 200 cover dining room along with moody lighting and a jazzy house soundtrack. The effect is a funkier version of the Berkeley Square room with a smaller bar. The signature black cod and Rock Shrimp Tempura with Creamy Spicy Sauce were as good as ever whilst service was better than London, showing none of the condescension that so often afflicts the London staff. Interestingly, Tuna is now yellowfin rather than blue, perhaps recognising marine conservation concerns.

Nobu is of course the epitome of fashionable western friendly fusion dining. Backed by Robert De Niro, it is one of several high end Japanese restaurants in London. In writing this post it occurred to me to ask, which Japanese restaurant is best. The reality of eating Japanese food outside of it's home country however is that it's popularity with well heeled Oligarchs, film stars and the hedge fund crowd means that it will never truly represent genuine Japanese cuisine and is invariably found in L.A, London and Dubai. So whilst Sake no Hana, a Kaiseki eatery and Zuma which focuses on Izakaya cuisine both offer trendsetting excellent meals, they are, I suspect, not authentic.

The further difficulty of course is that whilst most foodies will have revised etiquette (only wipe your hands on the hot towels, don't stick your chopsticks upright in the food, only pour soy sauce in your bowl and don't allow it to touch the fish), they have no benchmark against which to compare the genuine article. Perhaps authenticity isn't the ultimate arbiter of quality though my experience tells me otherwise which is why a gourmet tour of Tokyo and Kyoto is on my list of things to do before I die. Suffice to say, I have enjoyed unami laden hot dishes and the clean textured taste and geometric precision of good sushi in all of the above to a greater or lesser degree.

So how to judge? In this case, I rely on the ultimate hallmark of any restaurant, that is, how many times have I returned and spent my own money. This makes the task easier. Umu headed by Ichiro Kubota offers a Michelin starred take on Kyoto dining that is a step ahead of most of the competition whilst Kiku's, the erstwhile branch of the Mikuniya Onsen Inn in Kinosaki in Hyogo prefecture is entirely traditional, has been pleasing Mayfair for over twenty years and me regularly for the last five. Perhaps not such a conundrum after all then?

Why Du Pain, Du vin?

For those who remember, "Du Pain, Du Vin, Du Boursain" was the advertising byline for the eponymous cheese and I, faced with indecision reminiscent of that which overcomes the best of us when forced to pen something ironic but inoffensive for a colleagues birthday could only come up with this. Was it well thought out? No. Is it meaningful and significant? No. Is it ironic but inoffensive? Only time will tell. In this blog I will record my thoughts on the subject of food and wine (so few blogs seem to cover both) and try to stick to those topics I would like to see more written about in culinary cyberspace. In the meantime, off to hunt down a bottle of wine to go with tonight’s lamb chops and some inspiration for a meaningful post.