So this weekend we set off with friends to Coho Brasserie in Old Harlow, on the borders of Sawbridgeworth a well heeled Essex enclave which I suspect is their target market. The chef is ex of Hanbury Manor, a double AA Rosette holder, the dining room an Ikea-esque work of light colours and wood flooring.
The wine list offers a good spread of varietals and at 100% markup, is offering value, even for a local restaurant. It is perhaps a missed opportunity though. There are no descriptions or vintages for the wines and there are a few unfortunate spelling errors (Margeaux, Verve Ciquot). For a modest list this is irrelevant but for one that aspires to premium French offerings (Nuit St Georges, Givry Chambertin) the effect is unfortunate.
The portions are generous, with a high percentage of premium ingredients such as Turbot and a king prawn, scallop and crab laden bouillabaisse. This in addition to a lack of seasonality (no game?) of many ingredients must play havoc with margins. A fillet steak and a special of Madagascan prawns in a garlic sauce demonstrated an experienced hand on the grill station whilst Eton mess offered a creamy rich indulgent dessert that was a suitable foil to a grey and dismal February night.
There is little competition at this price point in the immediate area though further out into Essex, Smiths, Barda, The Bear and Mustard are all in the same league. This then is a restaurant with good atmosphere and service that has the potential to be much more. With a menu that plays to the strengths of local produce, some more focused cuisine and a little salesmanship this venue could really excel.
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