Friday 8 October 2010

Le Figieur de San Esprit

Tucked into the medieval heart of Antibes is an olive scented slice of Provence. Two dining rooms surround a small kitchen visible through a webcam and large plasma screen on the wall. This gives you the novel entertainment of hearing your orders called out and seeing the team leap into action. The second of these rooms is a memorable cobbled courtyard screened with a translucent roof that bathes the diners in light so that all the atmosphere of dining outdoors can be enjoyed with all the benefits of shelter.

We tried a fillet of Dorade with courgette, girolles, Trompettes de Mort and cherry tomatoes cooked entirely correctly and served with a vinegairrete. Pork loin was moist and tender with wonderfully delicate gnocchi, mushrooms and fig.

The dessert left us on something of a sugar high for several hours and included a lavendar creme brûlée, three chocolate gâteau, lemon sorbet, tarte tatin and fig dressed in balsamic vinegar.

All of the above excellent value on the weekday set lunch. The food here is excellent and demonstrates what can achieved with regional ingredients, sympathetic cookery and a striking setting.

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