Tuesday 19 June 2012

Tamarind


High end curry houses always present a problem. The shadow of brick lane and every modestly priced indian takeaway lurks over a cuisine that has much to offer but doesn't scream premium. It also has economically priced competition in the capital such as Lahore and Tayyabs so to impress, the food has to go to a higher level.

Alfred Prassad has been at the helm of this, now long established traditional Indian restaurant in the heart of Mayfair which has retained its Michelin star for 11 years and is one of a quartet of starred Indian venues which include Amaya, Benares and Rasoi.
The cuisine is focused on traditional Moghul cuisine incorporating North West Indian Tandoori favourites and is served in a pleasantly lit basement room which includes some of the most subtle kitchen views I can remember as the pass can be glimpsed through semi disguised one way mirrors hung on the wall.

Tobias Gorn takes care of sommelier duties and must have one of the hardest tasks in the capital. I can only assume that every diner diverted from beer to wine must represent a victory.

The kicker here, as with a select number of restaurants in the area is the set lunch which we tucked into with relish (figuratively speaking that is). Skewered ground chicken kebabs were tender and flavoured with delicate warming spices, chicken tikka (I know, I know, but if you are really going to compare the high street to Berkeley square the dishes must be matched) was a gentle, creamy and simple sauce that accompanied the meat rather than overwhelming it whilst the side orders of baby potatoes in cumin and Turmeric, yellow lentils, braised basmati and Nan rounded off the meal and provided an assortment of starches, each perfectly prepared to round out the meal.

In conclusion then, a fine Indian meal in which the care in the kitchen shone through. To be repeated.



No comments:

Post a Comment