Sienna

Sienna is not a name I have come across, restricted as my gluttony is to London and anywhere an hours drive from it. I was therefore relying entirely on the trusty Michelin guide to help me choose a final meal whilst in Devon and there is plenty of competition. It sits amidst Mark Hix's Oysterhouse' Matt Follas' wild Garlic' the Crab House in Wyke Regis and the occasional evening meal at River Cottage which form a gastronomic trail from Weymouth to Bridport like so many edible pearls on the Jurassic coastline. The first had been dispatched earlier in the week, the last was sold out so the fat mans star helped finalise the choice.

The exterior is unremarkable and the interior a pleasant and straightforward small Mediterranean themed dining room. Front of house is pleasantly and professionally dealt with by the chef's partner Elaine Brown, the wine list is limited but offers a worthy variety of choices from both the old and new world.

Bread is home made and excellent, an the quality of ingredients is high but the technical quality of cooking is exceptionally so.

An amuse bouche of courgette tartlets showed a delicacy of touch on the pastry front and was paired with a savoury earthy "goats cheese truffle". Both bought the taste buds enthusiastically to life.

A Panzanella tomato salad with creamy buffalo mozzarella and a rich balsamic vinegar was a deliciously simple dish that relies on sympathetic treatment of high quality ingredients. A main course of loin of lamb and shepherds pie offered lamb two ways with 'peas and carrots' in the form of pea shoots and a silky carrot puree raising a smile both for the touch of humour and the primal satisfaction of a perfectly executed British dish.

Lastly, mascarpone mousse with poached peach on a shortbread biscuit, offered a light and delicate finale of cream and acidity. The cheesecake was rich (perhaps a little too much so?) and creamy whilst Petit fours showcased the chef's broad technical skill and penchant for chocolaterie.

Russell Brown has spent the last eight years nurturing this 15 cover dining room on Dorchester High street so his ability to maintain it must be something of a labour of love. Perhaps the decor and choice of music is a little dated and the noise of buses stopping outside the front window but these gripes become petty once you begin to enjoy the classically prepared french cuisine

It is a pleasure to find that Dorchester can support cuisine of this quality and that the restaurant has deservedly kept the star awarded in 2010.

Hix Oyster and Fish House

On a recent trip on the Dorset Coast we visited the Hix Oyster and Fish House.

This one of Mark Hix's five venues, a brand that is rapidly turning into an watchword for quality British dining. An unusual cross between a chalet and wood fronted conservatory on stilts, it overlooks the Cobb in Lyme Regis from a small deck and through ceiling to floor windows offers a beautiful view of the bay. On our visit, unusually warm British weather tested the ventilation of the restaurant as it does not have air conditioning. This is rarely likely to be an issue in the UK however, global warming notwithstanding.

The menu is straightforward and offers spanking fresh fish cooked simply and served by polite young and slightly nervous staff, perhaps beginning their summer holiday front of house stint in the venue.


The wine list is short and limited, heavy on the new world selections with nary a Sancerre Pouilly Fume or Albarino in sight. The cooking, however simple, is consistent. Chips are good, soft in the middle, crunchy on the outside. Crab salad and crab on toast were both well seasoned and presented. Local Bream and Bass were excellent and served with a good green and hollandaise sauce. Authentically creamy ice cream and refreshing sorbet finished the meal though we had time for a quirky little alcojelly under the name of the "Shot of Hix Fix". Wine mark ups are closer to London levels at 300% at the budget end of the list. This venue has been in place since 2008 and turned tables twice on a summer lunch service so I am sure is proving very successful.

The view through the left of the restaurant jars slightly with that through the front as the former neatly frames the crazy golf course but this is the English seaside and if the view were of the med and the locals were playing boules instead it would seem authentic rather than twee.

It would be easy to attempt a comparison to Rick Steins fish restaurant. The formula is too straightforward to be put in the same category however, aimed as it is at well heeled casual holiday visitors who will not venture far enough down the coast to try the local competition which offers a similar approach for a few pounds less.

In conclusion then, the cost of the meal is perhaps a little high given the simplicity of the food but the quality is there and the location stands out.

York and Albany

From time to time I fail to record restaurant visits here and this is usually for four reasons. Perhaps I have already written about them and am visiting again, they are bland, bad or I had such a wonderful time, I made no notes, took no photos and can type up nothing of note other than "ooohhh lovely". From time to time though, a meal can fall into one of these categories but provoke a comment for another reason.

Launched by Angela Hartnett in '08 with a predominantly Italian menu (hence the adjoining deli Nonna's) whilst she was also creating Murano to the west in Mayfair, Colin Buchan has taken on the role and all trace of his predecessor are now removed from the website.

The menu is described as Mediterranean which in this case seems to touch broadly on Italy, Spain and France, though not specifically the mediterranean parts of any of them, so no bouillabaisse, no Greek or Turkish touches. Main course prices with the exception of the pizza excepted can equal those in the Savoy Grill or Claridges so expectations are high.

The bread was good, service very competent and the dining room at the back of the venue pleasant and well lit. Confit of lamb with carrots and puree was well presented and cooked though a little richer than expected whilst the Ice cream elicited no complaints.

There is an issue however. The layout of a bar at the front with a dining room at the rear means this feels like a very well decorated gastropub but doesn't focus on the typicity of it's food enough to merit the title. Nor can it be thought of as a Ramsey twist on a traditional English pub. For this, visit the The Narrow. The cuisine is perfectly competent however the menu seems confused as does the identity of the venue.

Perhaps the fault lies with reviewer here. Possibly a walk north from Regents Park tube rather than west from Camden Town may have encouraged the elegant townhouse restaurant ambience the website advertises but I suspect the departure of Angela Hartnett has robbed it of the culinary element of this approach. And here is my point. To impress a restaurant requires a focused identity. This can exist whether the food is simple and straightforward such as Maze Grill, a tribute to it's history such as the Savoy Grill or a destination restaurant. In this case it seems absent.

So a lukewarm review here because Gordon Ramsey, for all the criticism he has received, runs some great restaurants. One can't help but feel that the inspiration for the venue has moved on and given the Mayfair prices three miles east of where they belong, there is little to prompt a return.