Hix Oyster and Fish House

On a recent trip on the Dorset Coast we visited the Hix Oyster and Fish House.

This one of Mark Hix's five venues, a brand that is rapidly turning into an watchword for quality British dining. An unusual cross between a chalet and wood fronted conservatory on stilts, it overlooks the Cobb in Lyme Regis from a small deck and through ceiling to floor windows offers a beautiful view of the bay. On our visit, unusually warm British weather tested the ventilation of the restaurant as it does not have air conditioning. This is rarely likely to be an issue in the UK however, global warming notwithstanding.

The menu is straightforward and offers spanking fresh fish cooked simply and served by polite young and slightly nervous staff, perhaps beginning their summer holiday front of house stint in the venue.


The wine list is short and limited, heavy on the new world selections with nary a Sancerre Pouilly Fume or Albarino in sight. The cooking, however simple, is consistent. Chips are good, soft in the middle, crunchy on the outside. Crab salad and crab on toast were both well seasoned and presented. Local Bream and Bass were excellent and served with a good green and hollandaise sauce. Authentically creamy ice cream and refreshing sorbet finished the meal though we had time for a quirky little alcojelly under the name of the "Shot of Hix Fix". Wine mark ups are closer to London levels at 300% at the budget end of the list. This venue has been in place since 2008 and turned tables twice on a summer lunch service so I am sure is proving very successful.

The view through the left of the restaurant jars slightly with that through the front as the former neatly frames the crazy golf course but this is the English seaside and if the view were of the med and the locals were playing boules instead it would seem authentic rather than twee.

It would be easy to attempt a comparison to Rick Steins fish restaurant. The formula is too straightforward to be put in the same category however, aimed as it is at well heeled casual holiday visitors who will not venture far enough down the coast to try the local competition which offers a similar approach for a few pounds less.

In conclusion then, the cost of the meal is perhaps a little high given the simplicity of the food but the quality is there and the location stands out.

Corrigans

Expectations are always high when one visits an eponymous restaurant, above all when it's chef has won a Michelin Star, published books, has his own tv series and to top it all has won the Great British Menu. One rarely expects to see evidence of the chef behind the stove but Richard Corrigan was cooking that day, walking through the bar to shake a few hands, even stopping to re-arrange a stack of cookbooks for sale at the entrance to the restaurant.

Service is formal and efficient and the dining area is at the end of a bar in a long clubby but well lit room. Whilst the cooking is robust as one might expect from a chef who wears his home county of Meath on his sleeve there is real technique here as well. A starter of Pigeon was classically presented whilst sweet melon was coddled in Parma Ham, proving why some food combinations, no matter how old fashioned they may seem are timeless for a reason when the ingredients are at their best.

A main of Guinea Fowl included a perfectly pan fried breast with a confit of leg, pressed bread stuffing and creamy mash whilst the venison dish was rich and unctuous. A salted caramel chocolate offering was artful and a little plate artistry even elevated carrot cake on to a pedestal with a bed of sweetly marinaded slices of carrot and ginger ice cream.

Possible one of the Best value set lunches in Mayfair and "like the best roast dinner ever" we concluded. I've already booked a return visit.