Expectations are always high when one visits an eponymous restaurant, above all when it's chef has won a Michelin Star, published books, has his own tv series and to top it all has won the Great British Menu. One rarely expects to see evidence of the chef behind the stove but Richard Corrigan was cooking that day, walking through the bar to shake a few hands, even stopping to re-arrange a stack of cookbooks for sale at the entrance to the restaurant.
Service is formal and efficient and the dining area is at the end of a bar in a long clubby but well lit room. Whilst the cooking is robust as one might expect from a chef who wears his home county of Meath on his sleeve there is real technique here as well. A starter of Pigeon was classically presented whilst sweet melon was coddled in Parma Ham, proving why some food combinations, no matter how old fashioned they may seem are timeless for a reason when the ingredients are at their best.
A main of Guinea Fowl included a perfectly pan fried breast with a confit of leg, pressed bread stuffing and creamy mash whilst the venison dish was rich and unctuous. A salted caramel chocolate offering was artful and a little plate artistry even elevated carrot cake on to a pedestal with a bed of sweetly marinaded slices of carrot and ginger ice cream.
Possible one of the Best value set lunches in Mayfair and "like the best roast dinner ever" we concluded. I've already booked a return visit.
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