Auberge du Eric Maio

There’s really no better way to discover local wines than to set your sights on the nearest top notch restaurant and quiz the sommelier mercilessly until he reveals his favourites and this is exactly what we did. Tucked up in the Var in the upper reaches of Provence, an area that specialises in crisp air and mind bendingly tight hairpin bends we lunched on a beautifully cooked Breast of Duck garnished with three different beetroots. The starter was an artful creation of Potato and leek that cost pennies in ingredients but undoubtedly had a sous chef sweating off pounds to achieve a level of culinary sophistication that would have Ian Mcloud cooing at it's architectual sophistication on an episode of Grand Designs.

As ever I had to be physically restrained from over indulgence when the cheeseboard arrived. A family myth records my boyhood desire for a small red pedal car so strong that one day I climbed in and pedalled it ouit of the shop and up the street. I feel much the same when the afiineur du fromage hoves into view wheeling before him a laden cheese trolley. Sadly seconds are not permitted.

Dessert was an ode to fig, roasted, confit and jellied before being piled high onto layers of chocolate biscuits and honey ice cream. Like jelly and ice cream for grown ups we both agreed. The Dining room was was a well lit in pale provencal sunburnt yellow, Petit Fours, delightfully fairground like jars of marshmellows, nougat and chocolate lollipops. Service was pleasant, particularly given our late arrival and the gallic teeth grinding that inevitably ensues if you turn up for lunch anytime north if 1pm.

And what was the wine waiters secret weapon? A bottle of Chateau Saint Baillon Oppidum 2004. A blend of Syrah and Grenache with a touch of Mourvedre, this blend had length, layers and lashings of dark fruited cherries and plums, the tannins turned velvet with the passage of time.

This gets a Michelin star and deservedly so. If you have an Iphone I can also recommend the Michelin App at a third of the price of the bulky French Edition and the wonder of using it to find, ring, book, and direct you to a good restaurant in no time at all. A boon to the cartographically challenged.