The Square

For Christmas Lunch with friends we recently took the opportunity to dine at The Square, since let's be honest, over a certain price point one dines whereas at more economical restaurants one simply eats or lunches.

Two Michelin stars, a chef that actually cooks in his restaurants which include Kitchen W8 and The Ledbury, means that Philip Howard presents a classic approach to French Cuisine that excels technically. There is also a little humour however - a starter of Game Consommé with a Bacon Mousseline, Wild Duck Club Sandwich and a Grouse and Venison Scotch Egg bought a smile to our faces. The consomme was crystal clear, demonstrating a flavour intensity that comes of hard work and great skill. The sandwich was a richly textured miniature.

Dishes such as Venison Wellington and Turbot with Cauliflower, Parmesan and Almond Salad and Truffled Cauliflower Purée were entirely classic in their presentation though took the opportunity to embrace ingredients that are not part of the classic French reportoire. A seasonal finale of a simple but perfectly cooked Christmas Pudding provided a light but fruit packed finale to the meal.

Our sommelier was in order of novelty, enthusiastic rather than formal, gracious rather than condescending and even smiled which meant that selecting from the well rounded wine list was a harmonious process rather than a battle of wits.

This then is a restaurant to return to since The Square has achieved that epitome of fine dining, the knowledge that when you return you will not notice the light pleasant dining room, the efficient service or the technical excellence and quality of the cooking. You will just enjoy your meal immensely.