The Headley

Daniel Clifford of the two star Midsummer House in Cambridge opened The Headley in Great Warley 3 years ago to warm reviews. The countryside pub is modern, large and pleasantly decorated whilst the initial ambitions have clearly been scaled back.

A starter of Welsh Rarebit was cursed with a slice from a dry supermarket sandwhich loaf, with medium cheddar and a sprinkling of Worcestershire sauce and bore no resemblance to the real thing. On the menu, the dish is described in brackets as "warm cheese on toast" and this note is descriptive rather than explanatory. Main courses of Roast Beef and Lamb were both good with freshly cooked vegetables, crunchy roast potatoes and a decent gravy. Sticky Toffee Pudding passed muster but could have been lighter.

The pub was extremely busy and family friendly, so be prepared for a lively atmosphere with a kindergarten feel if you go on a Sunday.

Pret a Porter pub ventures are a tricky thing to pull off. Whilst the kudos lent by association with a well respected venue can add to the allure, execution is key. The Roux brother owned White Hart in Nayland on the Suffolk borders offered a gilded slice of the best in classic french cuisine for many years but was a victim of the recession and, I suspect, the economics of premium restaurants outside of major cities. Ramsey, meanwhile, has probably struck gold with a trio of decent gastropubs in London that benefit from his name.

A three course set Sunday lunch for £22 is not excessive, even outside of London so whilst one doesn't expect the experience to mirror a meal in the couture venue, a little attention to detail in the kitchen and service should be enough to make this a cut above the average. In this case however, the shine of those stars has failed to rub off and our search for the perfect Essex country pub continues.