There is little unique about the launch of a new London restaurant by a French chef laden with stars and accolades. The twist here is that Daniel Boulud's success has, to date been entirely in the US so whilst his casual dining venture attached to the Mandarin Oriental focuses on French Bistro classics, he offers burgers on the side.
The atmosphere buzzes with a genuine west side hangout feel and the charcuterie is excellent. I would encourage anyone to sample the mixed plate with two different terrines, rabbit and slow cooked lamb, a light salami, brawn jelly and a fine duck liver pate. The Fries are nondescript and whoever has the job of salting them is overenthusiastic in the extreme but the NY burgers are, I have to admit, outstanding. The Piggy is beefy and juicy, layered with BBQ pulled pork and green chili mayo.
The tables, whilst well spaced are too small for four people and since they serve a lot of elbows out finger food, the feeling is a little cramped. Service, on our visit was polite but not without flaws. The speed and enthusiasm applied to filling our wine glasses turned what could have been a nice service touch into an exercise in wine sales.
Overall then a nice juicy well broiled slice of Manhattan hangout in a 'look at me' postcode. Just don't ask for a shake to go with your fries.
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